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February 05, 2012 
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In the NewsHeritage Perennial News

PERENNIAL GARDENING NEWS and other great resources - Look for these items at your local Garden Centre!

TOAD-LILY: brown-thumb perennial of the month

News GraphicI've always admired Toad-lilies for providing late-season bloom, some types as late as October and into November, practically the last garden perennial to burst into flower during the cooler weather of autumn. I've come to realize they also happen to be dead easy to grow, which is why they are my pick for this month.

The first one commonly offered to North American gardeners about 25 years ago or so was the Japanese Toad-lily, Tricyrtis hirta. Most usually grown from seed, this species produces an upright mound of elegant, lily-like green leaves. In mid autumn little buds appear towards the ends of each stem, finally opening into small star-shaped flowers with very light mauve or pink petals that are heavily speckled with wine-red to maroon. 'Dark Beauty' is the selection pictured here.

They thrive in part-day sun or all-day partial shade so long as it's not the deep and dark shade as might be found under large evergreen or maple trees. Japanese Toad-lily prefers a rich, moist woodland type of soil but has proven to be very adapatable so long as it gets a drink or two during extended droughts.

Some gardeners with very fertile soil find that the plants grow so tall they flop over from their own weight. That's easy enough to fix by pinching back the plants in early July or so, simply cutting them back by half. This causes secondary branching and a more compact size at blooming time.

In more recent years a few other species of Toad-lily have joined the ranks, as well as numerous garden hybrids. Flowers range from pure white through solid mauve or purple shades, and even yellow. Some have striping rather than speckling, and some have so much speckling as to look almost solid dark purple or maroon. The foliage has also been gussied up, with some selections sporting attractive variegation or all gold to yellow leaves. These selections are increased by tissue culture or stem cuttings, or by division.

Taller selections of Toad-lily are wonderful as cut flowers, lasting a good week or so if picked just as the blooms begin to open. Plant height can range from 12 inches up to around 3 feet or more, depending on the particular selection or soil and moisture conditions. In short-season regions like the prairies, Toad-lilies may well prove to be hardy but may fail to bloom before killing frosts in the autumn. Some of the earlier-flowering selections may prove to be worthwile in colder regions.

Plants will spread to eventually form a clump about two feet in diameter, but they are well behaved and not especially fast growing. The tradeoff is sturdiness and longevity, not to mention a lack of problems other than potential damage from slugs or snails. Cut the dead tops back to the ground in early spring. Toad-lilies are often late to emerge so marking the spot well is a good idea so as not to accidentally disturb them.

To see a complete listing of our Toad-lily selections, just click here.




Gardens, Wine and Wild Things!

News GraphicIf you have ever had the thought of visiting Africa someday, check out a fabulous tour scheduled for October 2012. Beautiful gardens are a significant part of the tour but not the only focus. This trip will start and end with safari experiences that will truly be a trip of a lifetime. In between you will meet interesting locals, visit vineyards and wineries and learn some of the history of this fascinating country. First class throughout with an emphasis on great experiences, yet relaxed and fun. Plant and garden lovers will enjoy this tour but it will also appeal to anyone wanting a truly memorable travel experience.

John & Kelly Schroeder, the folks behind Heritage Perennials, consider South Africa their favourite destination and look forward to leading their third tour. If you would like to know more about this exclusive opportunity to join this small group, please email your request to js@valleybrook.com




Winter Mulching: Is it Necessary?

Most gardeners are well familiar with the concept of mulching perennial borders with bark or other organic mulches as a way of cutting down on weeding as well as helping to conserve water. There was a time though when perennial gardening books strongly advocated applying a special mulch in late fall for protection from winter cold. Is this an essential task with perennials? Well, with Hybrid Tea Roses yes, but for the vast majority of perennials, probably not. This is especially true if you have dependable snow cover that generally sticks around all winter long. Being an excellent insulator, snow is the best possible mulch.

Having said that, if you are the kind of gardener that enjoys the challenge of growing plants rated beyond your hardiness zone, a winter mulch can be beneficial. For instance, when trying to grow the Hardy Banana (Musa basjoo) here in Niagara, a deep winter mulch is pretty much essential, at least for the first winter or two.

The key with winter mulching is to wait until the ground has frozen before applying it. Have on hand your mulching material for that particular moment. It should be something organic such as straw, leaves or compost. Have enough on hand to apply a good 8 to 12 inches on the particular plants you want to protect. Those plastic "rose collars" sold at garden centres are handy to contain the mulch, or regular chicken-wire from the hardware store can be easily cut and shaped to do the trick. I've seen gardeners mulch their bananas with a mound as deep as two or three feet and about the same diameter.

Once spring arrives you want to wait until about "mid spring" to remove your mulch. It's hard to pin a firm date on this, but in my mind it's about the time the Forsythia is in bloom, or the first daffodils are flowering. Any later than this and your plants may be starting to grow, any earlier and there is a chance that a late cold-snap will damage them.

Carefully rake off the mulch and send it to the compost pile, or spread it lightly around the adjacent border area to a depth of around 3 inches or so.

For bone-hardy plants winter mulching seems like a waste of time and effort in my mind. If you did some very late planting of warm-season ornamental grasses, Garden Mums, Japanese Anemone or other things that might be touchy, these are good candidates for mulching for the first winter. Do avoid mulching on top of low evergreen perennials such as Moss Phlox (and other evergreen rock garden type plants) as these are likely to get soggy and rot during the winter.




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